In the Water, Volcano Leak, and Cheap Bailer.

We finally got the boat in the water for the season. Well, maybe for the season. We launched, which went pretty smoothly. Since we had the mast off the boat, we had to get all the rigging back connected, which took a little more time than previous launches, but experience from previous launches compensated.

Quick-release toggle pin.

One thing we bought that makes it a little easier are some quick-release toggle pins. Use three of these to replace the pins that go into the chain plates, one for each of the forward shrouds, and one for the forestay (which is at the bottom of our furling jib). This makes it so that you are not fooling with cotter coils, which I hate messing with for anything that is not mostly permanent. They are a little pricey at the Catalina Direct web site, but they do make putting on the shrouds and forestay easier. The other shrouds stay connected to the boat when putting down the mast, unless the mast is removed from the boat.

We do need a technique for keeping the shrouds from getting caught on the snaps on the side of the cabin used for our cabin cover. The shroud gets under the snap, and gets a lot of tension as we raise the mast until we realize it is caught and pull it loose. This has happened each time we have raised the mast. We are considering our options here.

The crew and the mast raising system.

Our mast raising system rocks! We will get a detailed description here for it sometime soon. Greg had made a pretty good checklist for getting the mast raised, which makes sure that we do not forget any important step. (By the way, checklists are a good thing. If you want to learn about the value of checklists, read The Checklist Manifesto by Atul Gawande.)

After getting in the water, Sandi motored down to our summer moorage. Greg stored the trailer and unloaded all of the stuff like the gin pole and ladder back at the house and met Sandi just at sunset at the dock. Everything on the way down went smoothly, except the water in the bilge!

Captain at the helm.

Yes, after two seasons of a completely dry bilge, there was a little water. It is coming in at a pretty common place on a Catalina 22. There is a cable that extends from the keel winch through a keel cable tube and then through what is called the volcano. The volcano is a fiberglass cone that extends through the bottom of the boat to the keel. The keel cable tube is fitted to the volcano with two hose clamps. The seal between the tube and the volcano is seeping just a little, letting in water, about maybe a cup a day.

Fantasia arriving at the dock at sunset.

We ordered the parts from Catalina Direct to replace all the keel lifting hardware, including the cable and tube. However, you cannot replace the tube while the boat is in the water. The place where the tube meets the volcano is below the water line, and trying to remove it with the boat in the water will sink the boat! So to do this maintenance, we will have to pull the boat out. That should not be terrible as we do not have to put the mast down as we do the work...we just need some space at the boat launch to park for a while before we put it back in.

In the mean time, we will put on some Vaseline and wrap the joint in duct tape. That should slow the leak.

With the thought of having water in the boat, Greg made a hand bailer out of a milk jug.

Marine Adhesives

3M makes a variety of adhesives to be used on a boat. The three main ones are Marine Adhesive/Sealant 4000, 4200, and 5200. The 5200 comes in fast and slow cure. Essentially as the number goes up, the more permanent the adhesive. More permanent is not necessarily better, as you may need to remove that thing that you glued for maintenance some time in the future without stripping off the gelcoat.

Which one you should use is actually more complicated than just the adhesive strength, as it depends on what you are trying to adhere (wood to metal, metal to fiberglass, etc.), whether you need it in a color other than white, whether you need to use it below the waterline, etc.

There is a very nice chart of the 3M adhesive/sealants you should use for particular applications. We have a printed copy that we keep with the sealants. The 3M web site also has a similar chart. This article is also a good reference, and lists additional adhesives that may be useful, too, such as SikaFlex 291, 292, 295, and 296.

There is a stuff that will debond 5200. This describes how to use it.

Another terribly useful site when trying to figure out how to connect two items is This-to-That. You enter that you want to glue together glass to Styrofoam or ceramic to rubber, as examples, and it recommends the right glue for the job.

Steaming Light, Anchor Light, VHF Antenna, and Spinnaker Crane Project

One of our goals for this year is to get new wiring and accessories on the mast. The mast currently does not have an anchor light at the top. It's not strictly necessary for a boat our size, but we'd feel better not getting run into in the dark. The steaming light has also never worked, for reasons that we never debugged. The one time we were under power at dusk, Greg stood at the mast with a headlamp on! We also would like a deck light to see what we are doing on the deck at night.

Note: All photos in this article can be clicked to show detail.

Antenna hitting tree branch

New antenna needed!

We had purchased a windex wind indicator to put on the VHF antenna only to realize that our installed antenna was much too thick for it to go on. We debated what to do, but put off changing the antenna or getting a different mounting for the windex. Circumstances solved our problem! We broke the VHF antenna that came with the boat as we took the her out of the water at the end of last season. Right next to the launch was an overhanging branch from a tree. It wasn't there the year before and caught us unaware. The branch does not bother the power boats, but with our mast up as we pulled forward from the ramp, it bent the antenna just far enough to snap it. Thus, a new antenna was in order. The old one was not designed for sail boats, anyway, as sail boat antennas need to work correctly when the boat is heeled over.

Disclaimer: This shows what we did on our mast. However, we cannot guarantee that any of it will work on your boat and will not damage your boat. Follow these directions at your own risk.

We ordered a bunch of parts from Catalina Direct. Our boat is a 1985 Catalina 22, so different parts may be needed for other model years or if you have non-standard gear. You may find some of these items are cheaper from Amazon, through the links at the bottom of this post.

• D2087 Mast Light Wiring Harness C-22
• Z2019 Aqua Signal Steaming & Halogen Deck Light 82<->98
• Z3519 LED Upgrade for Aqua Signal Steaming/ Deck Light Combo
• D1157 Anchor Light Mast Mount Tube - C-22
• Z2004 Anchor Navigation Light 82<->98
• Z3028 LED Upgrade For White Navigation Light
• Z2022 VHF Masthead Antenna
• Z1798 Anchor Light Tube Installation Kit
• D2085 Spinnaker Crane C-22
• Z2029 Deck Connector 4 Pin Black Plastic
• Z1805 Windex 15 antenna mount

We also bought some additional items from Fisheries Supply:

• 45' RG-8x Marine Grade Coax
• 12' 14/4 Marine Grade flat wire
• Rubber grommets for 1/2" holes

Additional supplies came from our local hardware store, or were on hand:

• 3 10' Lengths of 3/4" Schedule 40 Plumbing PVC
• 2 PVC connectors
• Can of PVC Cement
• 50 3/16"x1/4" pop rivets (also called blind rivets)

  

  Pop Rivets

• Spool of 14 gauge bare solid copper wire
• Roll of blue or green painter's tape
• Plastic cable tie

Tools used on this project:

• Hacksaw
• Screw drivers
• Side cutters
• Wire stripper
• Flashlight
• Round file
• Pop rivet tool
• 50' Wire fish tape
• Vise Grips
• Needle nose pliers
• Electric drill
• 3/16" drill bit for metal and PVC
• 1/2" drill bit for metal and PVC
• Tapping tool handle
• Center punch
• Hammer
• 30' Tape measure
• Eye protection
• Dry erase marker
• Heat source (lighter or heat gun) for heat shrink

We bought the D2087 wiring harness for the lighting. It isn't strictly necessary, as you can buy the wiring separately. However, the harness is pre-cut to the right lengths, and has the heat-shrink already around the bottom joining the two runs together. It also comes with the grommets that goes into the mast to protect the wiring. In the harness, there is a 14AWG two wire run that goes to the anchor light at the top of the mast, and a 14AWG three wire run that goes to the steaming and deck light just above the spreader bars. We also bought 45 feet of marine grade RG-8x coax for new antenna wire. Marine grade wire is tinned to reduce corrosion.

We got LED replacement bulbs for the anchor light, steaming light, and deck light, as these consume much less power. The battery will last much longer with LED bulbs. We plan on using LED lights everywhere when we are done.

You will need at least two people to do the job. Frequently one is working at the end of the mast, while the other is in the middle. At times, a third person will be handy but not required.

When drilling holes in the mast, use the center punch and hammer to create a starting point, then drill slowly. The aluminum is easy to drill. Always use eye protection while drilling. After drilling use the round file to smooth any hole that will have wires run through it. We're assuming that this is done throughout the directions below.

Aluminum pop rivet are great for attaching items to the mast that will not be subjected to a lot of stress. If you make a mistake or do not like how the item fits, just simply drill them out and try again.

The description below shows what we think will work best, given the hind sight of finishing this project. Some pictures may show tasks completed in a slightly different order than the description.

Prep Work

Mast on sawhorses
before removing furling jib

Coiled up standing rigging

• Decide where you are going to store all the parts that will be removed that will need to go back on later.
• Place the mast on sawhorses in a protected area. We used two sawhorses, plus a chair at times, because that's what we had, but later acquired a third sawhorse, as the mast flexed as we were working on it without center support.
• Remove the furling jib by pulling the cotter pin at the head of the mast and set it aside.
• Coil up the standing rigging and tape them out of the way with  painter's tape. Stepping on the rigging is a good way to put a hard kink into the cable, and you will be moving around the mast constantly. Best to get all that rigging safely stowed out of the way.
• Remove the bolt holding the mast head in place and set the bolt, nut, and mast head aside.
• Disconnect and pull the existing steaming light and VHF wiring. Set aside all old wiring to go to a metal recycling center, as copper is valuable.

The Conduit

When wires run up the mast, they should not be loose inside it. The existing antenna wiring had sponges placed around it every six feet or so to keep it from flopping around. We, instead, followed the recommendation to install conduit into the mast to run the wires through. The conduit runs on the inside front of the mast and is held in place by pop rivets. The PVC is about 6" shorter than the mast on both ends. The trick is getting the PVC conduit into the right place and riveting it. The instructions that came with the wiring harness recommend using a J shaped wire to hold the PVC to the front of the mast through one hole while pop-riveting another. After trying it, we discarded that idea as it did not really work. Instead we used 14 gauge bare solid copper wire as it had the right strength and flexibility.

Mark where you will
drill holes 2" apart

• Construct a 24' run of PVC (for a 25' Catalina 22 mast) by gluing the PVC together with the connectors, then cutting it to length with the hacksaw. 
• Mark spots in pairs approximately every four feet down the front of the mast with the dry erase marker, adjusting for hardware already on the mast. The pairs of holes are 2" apart.
• Drill 3/16" holes where you have marked.
• Cut six lengths of copper wire, each about two feet long.
• Fold them in half, then push the V of the fold through the lower hole of each pair in the mast. When it hits the other side, it expands.

  

  Copper wire pushed
  through hole

• Wrap the remainder around the outside of the mast and twist it together to keep it from getting knocked loose.
• Run the PVC down the mast through the loops in the copper wire.
• Make sure the PVC went through the loops at each copper wire by tugging on the wires, and viewing down the mast with the flashlight. The PVC should end about 6" from each end of the mast.
• Pull all the copper wires tight and re-fasten them around the mast. This pulls the PVC to the front of the mast. You should see the PVC next to the holes all along the mast.
  
  

  

  PVC pulled up next to the hole,
  ready for drilling

  

  Copper wire wrapped
  around the mast

• Working down the mast for each pair of holes:
  • Drill through the top hole of the pair through the side of the PVC.

    

    Drill the upper hole of the
    pair

  • Use the 3/16" x 1/4" pop rivet through the hole you just drilled to secure the PVC to the front of the mast.

    

    Putting the pop rivet in the
    upper hole of the pair

  • Use the side cutters to cut one side of the copper wire as close to the hole as possible.
  • With Vise Grips, pull the other side of the copper wire from the hole. In a few cases, the copper wire broke, but that will eventually come loose and shake down the mast.
  • Through the lower hole, drill a hole through the PVC
  • Pop-rivet the bottom hole to the mast.
  Note: Make absolutely sure that you have the first pop-rivet securing the PVC before cutting the copper wire at the other hole! We missed once and recovering took more than an hour of brain-storming, coat hangers, things being shoved down the mast to lever the PVC up, and other techniques that the copper wire avoided.

Running the Wires and Installing the Steaming Light

• With the PVC in place, drill a 1/2" hole in the PVC where the steaming light was located, though the existing hole in the mast.
• Run the fish tape down the PVC from the top of the mast
• Tape the anchor light wire from the harness and the RG-8x coax to the fish tape.

  

  Wires attached to the fish tape

• Put one wrap of painter's tape to hold the steaming light wire, which is shorter, to the other wires.
• At the end of the steaming light wire, create a little pull of tape, which is easier to grab with the needle nose pliers than the wire itself.
• Pull the wires up to the where the end of the steaming light wire is next to the hole and pull it out.
• Place a rubber grommet into the wiring hole at the bottom of the mast.
• Pull the end of the wiring harness though the hole.
• Slip the heat shrink over the wires.
• Strip the wires and fasten to Z2029 Deck Connector.
• Make a diagram of which color wire is connected to each pin on the deck connector...you will need that later. This should go into your permanent records about your boat.
• Carefully subject the heat shrink to heat until it is tight around the wires.

  

  Wiring harness routed
  at bottom of mast

• At the steaming light, strip the outer wire insulation from the three wires back to the steaming light hole.

  

  Removing the outer insulation
  for the steaming/deck light

• Put a rubber grommet into the hole.

  

  Wires routed for the
  steaming/deck light

  

  Inserting the grommet

• Remove the gasket on the back of the steaming light, as there is not room to fit the wires through the hole otherwise.
• Slip the three wires through hole at the back of the steaming light.
• Drill two 3/16" holes in the side of the mast
• Pop-riveted the steaming light into place.

  

  Pop rivet the steaming/deck light
  into place

• Strip the wires.
• Screw the wires to the screw posts for the steaming light, deck light, and ground. 

  

  Wires for the steaming light, deck
  light, and ground connected

• Put the cover on the light.

Strain Relief

Now move to the top of the mast. There needs to be strain relief on the cables. This holds the cables on the top of the mast, so that the weight of the wires or a tug on the cable at the bottom of the mast does not pull the wires from their connections. There seems to be as many opinions on how to perform strain relief on wires as there are people making posts about it on the Internet. We decided to go with a cable tie that has a hole for a screw.

Cable tie with screw hole

Cable tie strain relief.

• Drill a 3/16" hole in the side of the mast.
• Bend the hole for the cable tie at 90 degrees.
• Pop rivet the cable tie to the inside of the mast.
• Put the cable tie around the wires and pull tight.
• Cut the excess cable tie.

Spinnaker Crane

Last season we used the jib halyard for raising the spinnaker and gennaker. This worked, but ideally the spinnaker flies forward of the forestay, and can slide in response to the wind. When using the jib halyard, the top of the spinnaker chafes against the forestay. Adding a spinnaker crane, block, and halyard will put the spinnaker in the right place.

• Pull the cotter pins for the rigging on the fore side of the mast head and discard.
• Remove the clevis pins from the mast head.
• Put the spinnaker crane in place.
• Put the clevis pins that came with the spinnaker crane through the mast head.
• Put the cotter coils for those pins in place.
• Attach a block to the crane.
• Run at least 50' of 1/4" or 3/8" line through the block

VHF Antenna

Our VHF antenna is mounted on the starboard side of the mast. We did a little work to make it fit on the side the mast, outside the shroud lines.

• Drill a hole through the bracket for the antenna, which will accommodate the bolt that holds the mast head.
• Drill two additional holes in the bottom of the bracket.
• Drill two holes for the bracket for the antenna into the side of the mast.
• Pop-rivet the two lower holes in bracket for the antenna to the side of the mast.
• Drill a 1/2" hole in the mast for the wire to come through.
• Place a grommet into the hole.
• Attach the coax connector to the wire

Windex

The windex that we bought previously now went on the antenna. This is the scheme that worked.

• Bend the reference angle for the windex to the right shape (about 60 degrees).
• Slide the large washer on the antenna base.
• Put the reference angle on the antenna base..
• Mount the antenna on the antenna bracket.
• Put the locking nut on the bottom of the antenna base.
• Put a wrap of rigging tape around the antenna just above the anchor light.
• Remove the end cap of the antenna.
• Slide a Teflon washer over the antenna down to the rigging tape.
• Slide the windex over the antenna.
• Slide another Teflon washer over the antenna.
• Put another wind of rigging tape around the antenna above the washer.

Anchor Light

The anchor light is mounted to the mast head with a tube. The light is then mounted to the top.

Tube properly mounted.

Tapping holes into the mast head.

• Drill two holes through the anchor light tube at locations that will allow it to be secured to the mast head.
• Drill two corresponding holes on the mast head.
• Using the tapping tool, cut threads in the holes.
• Screw the anchor light tube to the mast head.

The 2015-2016 Off Season Overview

We were particularly unproductive throughout the winter on the various maintenance that we had intended on Fantasia. Greg's father decided that having a quadruple bypass was more important. After they fixed that, there was rehab, and many doctors appointments. This kind of interfered with our boat maintenance schedule! Greg's father is doing fine now.

We had intended on performing keel maintenance, so have decided to defer that to the fall. Instead, we have decided to concentrate on three main activities:

1. Thoroughly clean and fix problems on the hull and rudder
2. Run all the lines back to the cockpit [Note: didn't happen]
3. Perform upgrades on the things attached to the mast

To clean the hull, we started with a thorough pressure washing of the hull and cockpit. We also pressure washed the teak. While pressure washing, we discovered that there are a number of small holes in the gel coat just above the water line. We have ordered the gel coat repair stuff, Spectrum Gel Coat Patch Paste Repair, and will be repairing it after it comes in. The paste is considered hazardous, and thus can only be shipped by UPS Ground, so be prepared for long lead times. You may think it would be a good idea to keep the paste on hand, but it has a limited shelf life, so order it before you need it, but not long before you need it.

After pressure washing, there were still stains, particularly just above the water line. We got some Davis Fiberglass Stain Remover. This stuff is just great. You just rub it on, with very little elbow grease, let it sit for a few minutes and wash it off. Use gloves, as it is an skin irritant.

Before and after of using Davis Fiberglass Stain Remover.
Also shows the holes in the gel coat.

To run the lines back to the cockpit, we purchased a Spinlock triple rope clutch. This will be mounted on the port side of the pop top. To make room, we are shortening the handrail on that side.

On the mast, we are:

1. Replacing the VHF antenna
2. Running new coax for the VHF antenna
3. Adding a windex to the antenna
4. Adding an anchor light
5. Running a new wiring harness for the anchor light, steaming light, and deck light
6. Adding a new deck light and steaming light
7. Adding a new spinnaker crane

We will be posting additional articles with details of these projects.

The Schooner Zodiac

We went out for a sail. It was another beautiful day for sailing, with about 12 knot winds and waves just starting to whitecap. The sun was out, but not blazing hot. There were far more sailboats out than power boats, with a few kayaks and kiteboarders out too. Our normal crew had the children replaced by a co-worker of Sandi's.

While tacking up the lake, we saw down by the 520 bridge a very large schooner, with two masts and four sails. We decided to go check it out, so started running down the lake, wing and wing, trying to catch it. It sailed over toward Kirkland, tacked, and then headed back toward the 520 bridge, we guessed back to Lake Union. It was going about twice as fast as us, so we gave up trying to catch it.

After getting home, we figured out what we were looking at. It was the schooner Zodiac, which has her home port in Bellingham. This is a 160 foot sailing ship, built in 1924 for the Johnson and Johnson brothers, of Band Aid fame. They sold it just before the stock market crashed. It eventually wound up as a pilot ship in San Francisco until 1972, ferrying the pilots for San Francisco bay out to the large ships. By 1974, it moved to Washington State.

Blue Angels at Seafair

Blue Angels in formation.

All six F/18s of the Blue Angels.

Every year since 1972, with a couple of exceptions, the Blue Angels have performed at Seafair. Seafair is a Seattle event, that includes parades, hydroplane races, marathons, and other activities. The most popular part of it, though, is the air show. The air show includes lots of different performances, but what everyone comes to see are the Blue Angels.

With the smoke on.

The Blue Angels are the U.S. Navy's flight demonstration squadron. They are a highly visible way of demonstrating Navy aircraft, their pilots and capabilities. The Navy considers them one of their primary recruiting tools. Considering how many people they reach and entertain, their $37 million annual budget does not seem excessive.

Since 1986, the Blue Angels have flown F-18/A/B/C/D Hornet aircraft. These are highly maneuverable, twin tailed fighter jets. The most modern jets in that class are F-18E/F Super Hornets. These are larger, but most of the reason for the upgrades are better avionics, weapon carrying capacity and fuel capacity, which would not help in an air show. The main difference between the air show aircraft and the military aircraft is a different flight stick, and the nose cannon has been replaced by the smoke generator. The Navy claims they can turn the Blue Angels F-18s into combat ready aircraft within 72 hours.

Blue Angels completing a loop
and about to be attacked by a giant dragonfly.

For Seafair, they come out and practice, then hold shows on Saturday and Sunday. They have to close the I-90 bridge for a couple of hours during the show. Also boat traffic is restricted from I-90 south.

All of them looping at once.

There are six aircraft in the show. Four aircraft fly together most of the time, while the two most experienced pilots fly more difficult maneuvers separately most of the time.

We went out for a sail to see them. We never got south of the 520 bridge, so most of the time they were quite a ways away. However, for a few maneuvers, they come pretty far north.

Kiteboarder on Lake Washington.

Sandi and Taylor.

Right after the show, there were about 100 powerboats all headed right for us. They had all been south of the 520 bridge and came through the eastern high-rise passage.

We stopped at Carilon Point in Kirkland for a break, then proceeded to tack back up the lake, watching the kite boarders. A very nice day of sailing.

Flying the Gennaker (Asymmetric Spinnaker) on the Catalina 22

Catalina 22 with the gennaker (asymmetric spinnaker) flying.

We went out for a sail with our Catalina 22 and flew our gennaker (asymmetric spinnaker) for the first time. Besides our normal crew, we took Sandi's oldest son, Devon, who shot all of the photos in this post.

We left about 3:30 p.m. and got back in about 7 p.m. For the first part of the sail, things went pretty typical. We headed north up the lake with the wind coming from the south. We attached the lines to the gennaker, and raised it. On the third try, after fixing various line problems, we finally got it up. We lifted the sock, and it was out flying. With a few adjustments, we got it taking the right shape.

We use the same halyard, sheets, and downhaul as the symmetric spinnaker (see July 4th posting), but the one new rigging item is the parrel beads. We got ours from Neil Pryde Sails. Parrel beads are a set of balls that go around the furling jib that allows the gennaker to move up and down and rotate without damaging it. We do need a way to keep the furling jib wound tight, though, to allow the beads to move.

Young bald eagle.

Circling around us was a young bald eagle, trying to fish. It was just getting its white head and tail. As mentioned in posts from last year, now there are quite a few bald eagles fishing on Lake Washington, and while the younger generation is used to seeing them, the older sailors view them like seeing a live dinosaur.

As we continued to sail, a beautiful C&C 41 came along side us. With so much more sail, we expected it to leave us in its wake, but with the gennaker out, we were keeping up.

We doused the gennaker and headed back south. The C&C 41, eventually caught up. The captain challenged us, but we had to wave as it sailed away.

C&C 41 sailing off.

Wind speeds and directions at Sand Point.
Modified from iWindSurf.

As we headed south, the wind picked up, and started radically changing directions. The chart of the wind speeds and directions around that time shows what we got ourselves into, with sustained winds of 2 to 12 mph, and gusting as high as 17. The wind was changing direction all over the place.

At one point, the wind radically changed direction, and gusted to 17 mph at the same time. It caught us unexpected, and Sandi had to fight a little to keep us under control. We finally headed into the dock. There were high waves, but the crew operated well and we got her docked.

A view from the deck.

Sailing to Lake Union

We went for our longest day of sailing yet. We set sail at about 12:30 with our normal crew of Conner, Taylor, Greg, and Sandi. The wind was coming from the south, and we headed in that direction, tacking down the lake. It was the wrong direction, however, for flying our spinnaker again.

Headed south in Lake Union. The Space Needle just
off the port bow.

After an couple of hours heading toward 520, we dropped sail and motored our way through the Lake Washington Ship Canal, the Montlake cut, Portage Bay, and into Lake Union. We passed under drawbridges that have enough clearance that they do not have to opened for us. We landed on the south end of Lake Union, and tied up to the dock there. Dinner was at Duke's Chowder House at Chandler's Cove.

Our route. The red line was our approximate path.
Map © OpenStreetMap contributors

The Lake Washington Ship Canal was a huge construction project completed between 1911 and 1934, creating a water passage between Puget Sound and Lake Washington, by way of Lake Union. Nothing like it would be allowed now because of the environmental impact, including dropping the water level in Lake Washington by almost nine feet. The Montlake Cut is a 110 foot wide man-made passage between Portage Bay and Lake Washington.

The crew. Fantasia tied up at Chandler's Cove.

After dinner, we reversed direction. While we were having dinner, the winds had shifted and were now coming from the north. We briefly put up the sails in Lake Union, then dropped them again. The Montlake Cut is too narrow to be sailing in, with many boats making their way from Lake Union and Puget Sound to Lake Washington. There were sailing classes with Lasers from Seattle Yacht Club in Portage Bay. There were sail boats from the University of Washington boat house. There were really inexperienced sailors trying their hardest to capsize a small sail boat and failing.

After we got back into Lake Washington, we raised sail and tacked our way north. The winds were just about perfect: strong, but not overwhelming. The sun had a slight haze over it, apparently from forest fires in British Columbia, which kept it a little cooler. There were lots of sailboats out, and only a few powerboats. The seas were too heavy for the power boats to pull shark bait behind them (what Greg calls kids on inflatables). For a while, we played with another Catalina 22. We nicknamed the captain Crazy Ivan, as he did things like take his boat in tight circles, or pull his boat ahead of ours on the same tack.

We pulled into the dock as the sun was headed near the horizon after 8 p.m. A long day, but one of the most enjoyable we have had sailing.

A Busy Day of Not Sailing: Mounting The Outhaul and Tiller Stay

Spring line to the concrete
post.

Whipping indicating where to tie up.

We did a lot more maintenance on the boat today.

We bought another snubber yesterday for our fifth dock line. This allows us to keep the boat nicely away from the dock in all directions. Our host moved a cleat for us on the dock, and the new position really helps. We also are whipping the dock lines to mark them at places so that we can very quickly get them adjusted just right when we pull in. This will make docking faster.

Pulpit eyes for spinnaker sheet blocks.

We put on new pulpit eyes on the stanchions for the spinnaker sheet blocks. Catalina Direct says that Catalina 22s have always used 1" thick tubing for the stern pulpit, but ours is made of 7/8" tubing. The pulpit eyes that we got were too large. They worked for our first time out, but we needed hardware that fits for a more permanent mounting. We found some hardware that will work at Fisheries Supply that fits the 7/8" tubing when used with a couple of D-shackles.

Blocks for the mainsail outhaul.

We mounted new blocks for the mainsail outhaul

Tiller stay.

And finally, we added our new tiller stay tiller controller. This was from a kit from Catalina Direct. They have several videos of projects to perform on a Catalina 22. The demo for installing this is on the Video Projects DVD volume 2. This allows the captain to leave the tiller for short periods without losing heading, as well as not having to fight the tiller so much. It also means that we do not have to tie up the tiller when we dock. It took us maybe two hours to install the whole thing. We did not do the complicated epoxy thing on the tiller.

Note that the video and directions are not clear on where to mount the fairleads that direct the line to the tiller. They say to mount them one inch inboard from the thingy on the side, but not how high off the seat. We mounted them just a little too low when the seat cushions are in place and will need to move them up an inch or so.

Flying the Symetrical Spinnaker on Fantasia

Our first time flying the spinnaker.

It has been Sandi's goal for quite some time that we would fly our symmetrical spinnaker on July 4th, Independence Day, of this year, for reasons that should be apparent from the accompanying pictures. It was looking like we were not going to get all the rigging in place until after the 4th, but everything came together and it worked.

This is a fairly big deal for us, because nobody on board has ever flown a spinnaker. All knowledge has been acquired by reading articles and books, and viewing videos online. (Possibly the best video on using the spinnaker is this one, Spinnaker Sailing, on YouTube.) We knew that there is some knowledge that you only get from actually doing something, so we were not sure that we even would make it work.

While still at dock, we checked our rigging and re-tensioned some stays. Also, a cleat had been moved for us on the dock to allow better tying up, so we adjusted our dock lines.

Before heading out, we planned on putting the spinnaker out on the port side. We planned that we would not bring out the jib until we were done with the spinnaker. So we fastened the turtle (spinnaker bag) to the life line on that side. We attached the snapshackles to the tack and clew of the spinnaker. Fortunately the port and starboard corners of the spinnaker are color coded.

For this season we are using the jib halyard to raise the spinnaker. For next season, we will probably add a head to the mast that has a separate ring and block just for the spinnaker. We have a furling jib, so the jib halyard is unused otherwise. We fastened the jib halyard to the top of the spinnaker sock. We tucked the jib sheets around the forward cleats so that they'd be low and out of the way.

We left the dock and motored out. We dropped the swing keel and raised the mainsail. Then we brought out the spinnaker pole and attached it to the mast ring. We attached the topping lift to the top of the spinnaker pole and the downhaul to the bottom and ran the port spinnaker sheet through the end of the spinnaker pole.

Spinnaker wrapped around the jib.

We then got ready and tried raising the spinnaker sock. First try failed as one of the lines was on the wrong side of the downhaul. Second try found another line interfering and had to be adjusted. Third try also failed, as we had failed to put the starboard spinnaker sheet around the front of the jib. Fourth try got the spinnaker sock to the top of the mast. The sock was lifted and the spinnaker started flying. There was not enough tension on the sheets though, and the spinnaker promptly wrapped itself around the jib! How do you solve that?

Turns out that if the slack is taken in on the sheets, and the helm varies a little off the wind, that enough wind catches the spinnaker to cause it to unwrap itself. And suddenly the spinnaker filled and was out flying! A little adjusting the sheets and downhaul and off we went, flying south down Lake Washington. The captain had to adjust to the fact that we had both the mainsail and spinnaker flying, but she soon figured that out.

Success!

Our spinnaker is red, white, and blue, which in the U.S. is very patriotic. We had people in power boats going by and blasting their horn!

After a very fast run down the lake toward Kirkland, we took down the spinnaker. Not completely without problems. The spinnaker sock did not want to come down. After a little head scratching, we figured out the problem: the sock lifting line was still cleated. You can pull on the line to bring it down as hard as you can and it will not budge when the lifting line is cleated!

The sock came down. Then the spinnaker came down and was folded back into the turtle. Unfastened the sheets and halyard, took it off the lifelines and down the forward hatch. The sheets and halyard get clipped to rings and stays to keep them from flopping around. We unfastened the spinnaker pole from the topping lift, downhaul, and mast ring, and stowed it below. Then we were ready to bring out the jib and tack back up the lake.

However, when the spinnaker wrapped itself around the jib, it messed up the furling of the jib and practically tied the jib sheets into knots. It took us a while to get that straightened out. After tacking back up, we pulled into the dock, exhausted but feeling very satisfied that all this work has paid off.